Tuesday, May 20, 2014

Best Chinese Take out

A little shop on Watson just north of the intersection of Watson and Lacleade lies my personal Haunt for that deep-fried sauce covered meat of questionable origin that is American Chinese Take out.

Knock the thought that Chinese take out is authentic Chinese Cuisine right now, it's not, nor will it ever be, nor do I want it to ever be. I love actual Chinese food, bowls of noodles in broth covered with everything in the kitchen, buns of all variety that stuff is orgasmicly good if you can find a good source to hit your fix, and I have but that's for another time.

The beauty of the red headed step child that is Chinese take out is that it isn't actual cuisine. Over the pacific in the home of the middle kingdom they would have no idea what seventy perecnt, if not more of the items on your typical take out menu is, and I like that, it is American food, imagine if instead of Burger joints there were only steak houses, where of course you could get a steak friete and you know what even as a sandwich, but it wouldn't be the same. There's a reason that the Chinese take-out joint is on the fridge of 90% of families in the united states, at least in STL... and often the same place is passed down from the consumer side of the equation growing up with a certian kind of fried rice, does the wanton soup have mushrooms or just lovingly made pork filled wanton wrapper boiled in chicken broth (that's what I grew up with).

Bar none Dingho is my joint, its one of the few places in town where I can walk in and smile at the tiny little Asian woman behind the counter bow slightly to Gran-Gran whose shuffling round back and without saying a word six maybe ten minutes later one of my favorite comfort meals, Crishpy Cashew Chicken No Vegetable combination plate with fried rice, fried wanton, and crab rangoon; Eggroll; and order of six perfectly done post stickers will be handed over the counter to me as I hand over the 10.00 that the meal is (I leave the change behind, the meal is definitely worth the tenner plus every once in a while the little woman shakes her head, "you no pay this time"... I leave the money on a table anyways.)

A wok across Asia

As you might have gathered by this point I'm a bit of an Asiaphile, I love most things that come from the east from Kim-chi and Bulgogi to Schezwan Eggplant and Fried Rice to Sushi and Tempura. The spice mixes are interesting, flavorful and fresh when compared to the french sauces and preparations. This brings up the question of which fare from the east is my favorite, and that is where we hit a problem. I don't really have one, there are bits of each cuisine that I love and bits I could do without.

This is where "Chinese" buffets come into play, now there are some in St. Louis that really shouldn't be gone to, before it closed down China Star was a good example, another one that I would recommend shying away from would be Habachi Grill Supreme Buffet down on Watson... trust me just don't on this one food rests for hours on end, I've never seen the food checked on, service was... just bad... but there are some places in St. Louis that have reinvented themselves, Joy Luck buffet is a great example of this. For a long time it was the place to avoid in town, but a change of owners can be a wonderful thing. This is my go to Chinese buffet, but not my favorite, I go because of good qaulity, fair price and most impotently how close it is to my home.

Before I go into my favorite Chinese buffet lets go into what makes a good one. Decor while important isn't the end all be all, food has to be constantly coming out of the Kitchen, rotated often and seamlessly, the waiter or more likely waitress should be good at what they do moving quickly refiling drinks and clearing plates all the while smiling and laughing along. But most importantly is the Variety factor, the fact is that Chinese Buffet has for a long time been a misnomer, Far Eastern buffet would be more appropriate, a healthy mix of Korean, Vietnamese and Japanese built on a base of good Americanized  Chinese that we are all but force fed growing up.

In St. Louis the end all be all of the Chinese Buffet falls to Emperor's Palace. The thing is you don't go into a buffet expecting authenticity, it just doesn't work that way and Emperor's Palace makes no claim of that, they do claim and rightfully so a wide range of Asian dishes, a high turnover rate in the food and an atmosphere conducive to kicking back sipping hot green tea while laughing at the kids running around the chocolate fountain as you take a bite of Beijing Duck right next to a pile of Kim-chi and a half of a tuna roll.

Monday, May 19, 2014

The first bite of Summer

As A St. Louisian, there is one thing that means the start of summer, that first bite of your concrete of choice from Ted Drew's Frozen Custard. This place is a St. Louis staple, one of the few of the places that this city is actually known for. Let me explain it to you, Take a parking lot, smack a building in the middle of it, similar to a used car lot, add a bunch of late teen early twenty year-olds in bright yellow shirts, throw on a senile old man with an affinity for frozen custard and you have the cold dessert Mecca under the Arch.

There are an infinite number of combinations that can come flowing out of the glowing windows that hide a paradise of blenders, mixers, churners and acne infested teenagers.  You walk up to the window with your friends after one of the following:

A Cards Game
o A Rams Game (early in the season)
A High School football game (High school of your choosing)
A show at the Fox
A show at the Muny
A Wedding
A Funeral
A Barmitzvah
A Batmitzvah
A Bonfire
A House Fire
A Gang Fight
ect.
Basically after everything... and anything is an excuse to go and get your choice of deliciousness trapped between ivory folds of frozen vanilla... ... ... ...

I'm sorry about this, I seem to be channeling my inner Bourdain today...

But anyways, there is only one item in St. Louis I can willingly go  back over and over and over again, on my knees and begging for, a Large Teramizzou concrete... Pistachios, Hot fudge, Caramel sauce, throw into a blender cup hit Frappe and wham-o blam-o ambrosia from on high handed to you by a late teens early twenties goddess on earth in a yellow shirt and a black visor.

Tuesday, May 13, 2014

A deeper look at St. Louis' China Town.

Cruise down 170 and get off at Olive you have now entered the small but growing China Town in U-city. A couple of good Asian markets and lots of tasty eateries line Olive for a few blocks here Lui-Lui's, Wei-Hong, Oishi the list goes on and on, I have yet to try every eatery along the strip but am slowly ticking them off one at a time and as of yet have not been disappointed -knocks on wood-.

There have been a lot of odd looks at me as I stroll through the isles of Seafood city and Olive Farmer's market, two of my favorites stores, but I smile slightly and bow a little at the waist receive the same and move on. A few of the clerks have learned my name, probably because it's embroidered on my coats and I hit there in between work and school... but anyways if it's from the east and you're looking for it odds are if those two markets it can't be found Under the Arch.

Haveli: A home away from home

I am white, my grandparents, all white... but if I had an Indian Grandmother I imagine going to see her would be a lot like going to Haveli. Part of that probably comes from the fact that the owner/manager is a good friend of mine, Parth is a couple years older then I am and a friend who fills the role of big brother that I normally fill with my friends. That and the food that they serve is some of the best in St. Louis. Not kidding, it's one of the few places that if I could afford it would happily hit three or more times a week and still be happy.

You walk into the front door and are hit with Indian music, some Bollywood mixed with traditional and the smell, you'll likely see the tall scraggly man that is Parth fluttering around the tables checking on everyone before his eyes lock onto you and he greets you from across the room before pointing at an empty table telling you to sit and enjoy, I recommend sitting and when he walks by ask for chai his way, he'll smirk a bit nodding before telling you to go and eat. The Island o'food as I have come to call it is full of chaffing dishes that carry wonderful dishes that feel homemade while the taste is definitely professional.  Every once in a while you'll see a middle aged Indian woman come out of the kitchen like a queen before calling her son over, that is Mama Parth a force of nature that could orginize and run even the most disorganized of armies.

I don't have a favorite dish... it's all so good...  normally a carnivore I'll load up my plate with vegetarian dishes just as easily as meat filled ones... As I stated I am a sucker for good goat, and the best I've had in St. Louis is with out doubt at Haveli. It's a buffet on Sunday Night, Thursday night and every day between 11 and 3, Tuesday, Wednesday, Friday and Saturday Nights it's a sit down place that really feels like home with large share able portions and good atmosphere, with the blinds closed you almost feel like your not in St. Louis anymore, instead you're at Grandmama's house sharring food and drink with your large family, while not a secret... exactly it's more of a club with who knows about Haveli, and this is my invitation to all of you to come and join the family.

India Palace: Take out fit for a King.

Right off a highway, a couple miles down from the Loop lies one food institution that one shouldn't neglect to mention if they're on an Indian Kick... guilty as charged... but I can't help the craving for good Naan and selections of curry. With that being said it really is a great Indian place good food at a decent price, as most of my posts are about. The meal for two is enough for three of my family and we are... generous eaters for the most part and quality is not sacrificed by the quantity produced. I'll say it now and I'll say it again, I'm a sucker for good goat, and India Palace has some damned good goat on it's menu.

I ate in the restuarnt for dinner one time shortly after it opened for the days service. My father and I were both after Indian food and our favorite place was closed since it was a Monday, we watched at how as soon the clock struck five the phone in the place started blowing up call after call coming in, dinner for three, dinner for two, Chicken Tikki massala with extra Naan, order after order taken by the hostess at her station and within twenty minutes they started coming in, well dressed women in mini-vans, suited fathers in SUV's with a daughter from one of the catholic girl's schools the middle and upper-middle class of st. Louis stopping by on their way home from work to pick up their food.

The most impressive part was the hostess, she remembered names of children, events in the family, my father and I watched in awe as we enjoyed tandoori chicken and a medium goat curry respectively, the calls stopped coming in around six o'clock and the last of the Parents on the go had their food and out the door by six thirty. Under the Arch take out is the savoir of several working families, and to spice it up why not throw some Indian flavor into the mix with India palace.

Mr. Curry, also known as the Restaurant formally known as Curry in a hurry...

You're in downtown St. Louis... it's the middle of the work day and you're hungry... what do you do, you only have thirty minutes before the boss comes breathing down you're neck for the reports that were never your responsibility to begin with but did anyways. Luckily near the corner of Olive and Seventh lies the answer to your hunger, Mr. Curry's Buffet Express.

You walk up and pay the very fair price and walk up to the buffet, as you look around you see a group of college kids in the corner, maybe interns from one of the local universities, maybe a study group, an old couple chatting over a stack of paper plates, and three men having a power meeting over lunch their designer jackets hung on the back of their chairs and their free hand pressed against their ties as a plastic fork carries the delectable bits of slow cooked meat and veg from plate to fork or a torn piece of delicious Naan sopping up curry only to be quickly popped into their mouths before a single drop of the precious liquid can make contact on the tailored shirts. A diverse crowd to say the least. as you reach the buffet line, a ten compartment steam table, a rice cooker and a collection of platters and and thermoses you are fully hit be the smell of good curry, grabbing this and that you stack up on Naan and Bathora breads, find a spot and start eating. In and out in fifteen minutes and back in the office with plenty of time to check over those stupid reports one last time.

Limited hours (11am-1:30 pm) and a set rotating menu allows for the low cost at the door without compromising on the flavor of the food. Under the Arch if you're in a hurry try Mr. Curry.